Whitechapel megaupload

It's possible that he sees a future when policemen will be more like Penry-Jones than the rogue-copper-with-a-heart-of-gold version he represents; he constantly refuses to acknowledge the lad may have some good ideas. With his off-the-peg suits, and "crapuccinos" as they are teasingly referred to by others , it seems even the lower orders may desire a more polished style. The series is never bogged down by details of the old Ripper saga, perhaps due to the eccentric Ripperologist who hovers around the story, played to the hilt by the excellent Steve Pemberton.

Could the mastermind of the modern Ripper murders, replicated to the exact detail, be none other than a man whose entire life is dedicated to Jack the Ripper? Or perhaps like an Agatha Christie murder, the obvious is too, well, obvious? Whitechapel may have any number of flaws, not the least of which are hackneyed character development, seeming like a cross between Prime Suspect, Morse and cult-classic Edge of Darkness, but it packs a very intriguing punch all the same. Details Edit. Release date February 2, United States.

United Kingdom. London, England, UK. Technical specs Edit. Runtime 3 hours. Related news. Inside No. Mar 2 Den of Geek. Contribute to this page Suggest an edit or add missing content. Top Gap. By what name was Whitechapel officially released in India in English? See more gaps Learn more about contributing. Edit page. See the entire gallery. Remembering the Stars We Lost in Watch the video. The choice of mortise or hook strike will depend on how your window is framed and if single or paired.

Double ball catches are easy to install if you still have access to the inside of the cabinet. If you are planning to use the catches on anything but the most rigid cabinetwork, it is advisable to mount them horizontally at the bottom or top of the door. If mounted vertically and opposite the hinge edge of the door, any small amount of racking will change the vertical relationship between the parts and prevent the catch from functioning correctly.

Plan to fit the catches before the cabinet back goes on. Mounting these catches on finishd cabinetwork can be frustrating unless you are blessed with an extremely small assistant with a ashlight.

Without help of this sort, you will have to rely purely on measurement. Even with the most painstaking measurements, it is diffcult to get it right the first time, though a little ling of the male component is usually all it takes.

Because of the nicky nature of these catches, they are better suited to fine furniture than built in cabinetwork. The spring pressure and feel of double ball catches can be adjusted by means of a screw at the end of each barrel.

Single ball catches can be used with the supplied strike or without. In softer woods, it may be advisable to use the strike. As a general principal, always use the largest catch your material can accommodate, the larger the catch, the better the feel and sound. A ball catch can be fitted in a variety of locations around a door without much trouble.

Generally they will be positioned in the bottom of the door as far away from the hinge as possible. On tall doors it might be a good idea to use a catch top and bottom. A countersink bit makes an ideal indent for the ball. This indent can be accurately located if a sheet of carbon paper is laid down on the wood and the door is closed carefully. The end of the resulting black line will mark the center of your countersink.

Drill a very shallow countersink to check for correct positioning. As you drill it deeper, you can move its center a little if some adjustment is required. The three catches shown bottom right are American made by Brusso and emphasize sophisticated finish and function. The four anged ball catches at the top right are English.

The three catches bottom left are American made and finely finished. Secretaire catches were designed to secure the fall front writing surface of period secretaire desks in the closed position. Because of their strength and neat detailing, they turn up in any number of situations where a quick release catch is needed.

These two hasp and staples use a turn staple to secure the hasp in the closed position. The larger item is also drilled to accept a padlock. In both cases, the hasp may be installed as illustrated, or reversed with the upper leaf mounted inaccesibly to the underside of the lid for greater security.

All the staples on this page are drilled to accept the shackle of any normal padlock. This hasp consists of 3 pieces, pictured above and below. Table catches can serve a variety of purposes all related to registering table leaves in place.

Different tables have quite different requirements and the correct catch should be used in each case. Dining tables of the 18th century were very often an assemblage of independent units that could be pushed together in different combinations to form a single table of suitable size for every occasion.

In order to keep these elements from shifting side to side or up and down, each top would key into the next with splines or pins. Table clips were used to keep the tables from coming apart. These clips are installed as pairs at each joint.

They are fitted near the table edge for easy. More modern extension tables built on telescoping table slides need a catch to prevent the leaves from creeping apart. Turn catches keep the leaves together and are easy to use. If crawling on the oor is not acceptable, then a pair of catches should be used at each joint. These can then be set accessibly near the table edge. Tilt-top tables have their own catches, either round or banjoshaped spring loaded devices that release to allow the table surface to tilt through 90 degrees for storage against a wall.

These catches are mounted to the underside of the table surface and engage the strike which is mortised into the table pedestal. All our table catches, clips and forks are sold individually. The sash screw was conceived as a security device for double hung windows.

A hole is drilled through one frame and into the other. The flanged nut is set into the second frame so when the screw is inserted and tightened, the two frames are locked together.

These screws can be used in many applications where individual sections need to be assembled securely and disassembled easily. Mirror screws allow a mirror frame to swivel easily between its supports, and then be locked firmly at the desired angle. This surface mounted indicator bolt set combines a positive locking function with an outside safety release. This mortise privacy bolt allows the option of emergency external release.

The finish and style match our door knob sets for an elegant and functional solution to the privacy requirement of bedrooms and bathrooms.

The bolt on this item has a beveled end, allowing it to self latch. A spring indent keeps this foot bolt in the withdrawn position until fully engaged.

This bolt is supplied with both the strike shown and a mortise strike. Both the strikes shown are included. Please allow a 6 week delivery for cremones. Our English solid brass cremone bolts offer a wide range of stock and custom options.

The bars can easily be cut shorter and we can supply longer bars by request. Our cremones mount and operate on the interior side of the door. All styles can be ordered with the additional parts needed to allow for exterior entry.

All necessary guides and strikes are supplied for both in-swinging and out-swinging doors. The usual plated finishes are available by special order. Solid unlacquered polished bronze can be supplied where noted at about double the cost of polished brass. This item is available in solid unlacquered polished bronze by special order. This item available in solid unlacquered polished bronze by special order.

These bolts can be provided with either a surface mounted or mortise strike. The bolt on the upper-left is not supplied with strikes. These English mortise latches have 8mm hubs.

The lever strength option has a heavy duty spring suitable for heavy, unsprung levers. These high quality tubular latches have 8mm hubs. The latches on these locksets are available in lever strength only. These American sliding door latches are supplied with thumbturn trim on both sides. A thumbturn can be removed from one trim plate if a privacy function is required. These rim locks are English made and have 8mm hubs to suit our Code 1 knobs or rings.

The ring shown in the photograph is not included with the rim lock, but is available on page The round and oval knobsets on page are for use with these rim locks.

This European rim lock is a natural companion to the levers on page The lever shown is an example and not included with the rim lock. The springing is strong and well up to supporting heavy levers.

Though very well engineered, no rim lock is as secure as a mortised lock, so these will need to be partnered with an auxiliary keyed deadbolt if used in an entry application. These two locks are exclusive to our catalog.

The lock with the sloping selvedge shown on the right is designed for the angled edge of a fall front desk writing surface. Most of our English cabinet locks are available in two qualities.

The more expensive locks are built on an extruded brass plate, employ a two lever mechanism, and are screwed together. The cheaper locks are built on a pressed brass plate with a single lever mechanism and are riveted together. Either type will function equally reliably. The extruded plate looks better than the pressed plate and the two lever mechanism is harder to pick than the one lever type. An example of the exposed side of each type is shown in the lower left corner of this page.

Our European iron cabinet locks on this and the next page are available in both inside surface mount or half mortise styles. These locks come with one key of the type shown and locks of a given type are all keyed alike. The strikes below are a starting point that in most cases will require bending or cutting to function in your particular situation.

This unusual lock has attributes of both cupboard and drawer lock. It is suited to a variety of applica tions, from sliding doors to boxes and fall front desks. The two-way keyhole allows for vertical or horizontal installation. These locks have a central keyhole position. Turning the key slides the bolt from one side of the lock to the other. The locks can be used on either right or left swinging doors.

Each lock is supplied with two keys. The better quality surface mounted locks above are built on a thick brass plate. The mechanism is fitted with screws and the completed lock is then hand finished.

The cheaper locks below are built of a thinner brass and riveted together. All these locks are equally functional, and differ only in visual appeal. This type of lock is mortised into the back side and edge of the work and lays flush.

Each of these types has its advantages. The work necessary to fit these locks make greater demand on finesse than muscle, as all the cuts are of the wide, shallow nature, rather than the more problematic narrow, deep variety demanded by the full mortise lock. This attribute suited the pre-power tool cabinetmaker. Because the half mortise lock is always registered against the inside of the work, the bolt is biased to the rear.

Traditional cabinet making accommodated this rearward bias with casework drawer dividers constructed of suffcient width material. In modern face frame construction, this characteristic can lead to problems and either the full mortise or surface mounted lock could be a better choice. Half mortise locks were rarely paired with a strike plate.

The bolt of the lock would engage into a simple mortise cut directly into the adjacent woodwork. Unless that woodwork is of fragile thickness, there is no downside to this method. Strike plates serve no useful purpose in this case and cost the cabinetmaker time and money. Because a full mortise lock is fitted into a deep mortise cut into the edge of the work, it is troublesome to install without a mortising machine; with one, it could hardly be easier.

Though conceived with rapid and mechanized installation in mind, the full mortise lock is not without some drawbacks. The bolt will generally be centered in the work, rather than biased to the rear as in the case of the half mortise lock. This may result in certain benefits related to simplicity of construction, but also brings the bolt nearer to the front of the casework, making it more likely for that area to break out under force.

Using a strike plate can compensate for this weakness. A full mortise lock can be a problem when installed in thinner material. A full mortise lock will leave two walls half as thick as the single wall left by a half mortise lock of the same thickness. With only minimal material in which to fasten, the keyhole and escutcheon pins or screws must be short to avoid interference with the lock.

Most surface mounted locks have a two-way keyhole allowing them to function as both hands of a door lock as well as a drawer lock. The keyhole is usually centered in the upright width of the lock and the bolt can exit from either side depending on which way the key is turned.

The bolt of a surface mount lock engages behind the adjacent face frame or door to prevent opening. Surface mount locks are versatile and popular, but like many things easy and convenient, they are not going to impress anyone with their refinement. Surface mount locks have historical credibility on country styles of furniture, particularly as door locks, but should probably be avoided on more formal work.

TERMS The various names for the parts of a lock and the definition of a left or right hand lock are a source of endless confusion. Suitable strikes for these locks are available on page The cupboard locks on this and the last page have beveled and spring loaded bolts that are self-latching, but require the key to release.

A single key is supplied with each lock and locks of a particular type are keyed alike. The strikes shown on page are a starting point that in most cases will require bending or cutting to function in your particular situation. The more expensive locks are built on an extruded brass plate, employ a two lever mechanism and are screwed together.

Most locks are supplied with two keys. The bottom left and top right locks on this page show the exposed side of the lock and are examples of each type. The need to secure precious objects is so innate to humans and many other animals that it is not surprising the earliest locks appear as long as years ago.

The oldest known locks employed a pin tumbler mechanism much like that of the modern cylinder lock but on a far larger scale. This type of lock has been found in cultures as diverse as those of Egypt, Japan and Norway. The Romans are credited with the invention of the metal lock and in fact developed the warded lock which uses the familiar skeleton key still common today.

Warded locks rely on sections of concentric ridges around which the key must fit in order for it to act on the lock's sliding bolt. Time passed and the increasing complexity of locks became a source of much pride to the locksmithing profession and sometimes misplaced assurance to the person with something to protect. The lock picker was never far behind these advances and being engaged in a prideful profession demanded job satisfaction that only more advanced locks could provide.

The late 18th century gave him a more challenging device, the double action lever lock. As the key slides the bolt into or out of the lock it also moves one or more spring loaded levers away from the bolt's path. The more levers, the harder the lock is to pick. Richmond, VA. Hardware supplied by Whitechapel Ltd. This roll top desk lock is comprised of the four parts shown.

This large French box or chest lock allows for a greater degree of movement between the box and lid of a chest than do our smaller English locks. It is mounted on the inside of the box with its mechanisms exposed as shown. The items on this page are examples of a wide range of European iron escutcheons that we offer.

These escutcheons and others like them can be found on pages 82 through 92 and are offered as either keyhole escutcheons or backplates for handles and knobs. The row of escutcheons above are thread style while the row below are anged. We carry well over different keyhole escutcheons in a variety of styles in both iron and brass. Escutcheons can be divided into two distinct categories: surface mounted escutcheons that are simply pinned or screwed over the keyhole and thread escutcheons that are mortised into the keyhole and show as a keyhole shaped brass line thread.

A third style called the flanged thread escutcheon has attributes of both. Its body is mortised into the keyhole while its bead-like ange sits on the surface. The escutcheon is simply pinned into place and can cover a relatively crude job of keyhole preparation. Surface mounted escutcheons are sometimes made in a shape to match a handle so a uni ed design can be realized. Modern locks can make surface mounted escutcheons harder to place without crowding the edge. If a surface mounted escutcheon is to be used with a modern lock, be careful to pick one that avoids this effect particularly on crossbranded or cockbeaded surfaces.

Select a thread escutcheon based on its visual effect on the furniture rather than the fit of the key. Older locks often used keys with bigger bits than those common today, so larger escutcheons were more common on period furniture. Fitting these escutcheons is straightforward, but must be precise. Due to their greater vulnerability, they are usually fixed with small pins through the holes both and down into the surrounding wood.

We have many more iron escutcheons in all sorts of sizes and styles. Please see pages 82 through These escutcheons match the handles on pages 22 and These escutcheons match the handles on pages 18 and These escutcheons match the handles on pages 24 and More escutcheons and backplates of this type are shown between pages 82 and The French armoire escutcheons on this and the preceding page are sand cast and hand finishd.

The bowed face and beveled edges set these authentic escutcheons apart from any mass produced item. To compliment them, we offer hinges and locks of the same quality from the same manufacturer on pages and The lower half of this escutcheon is the mirror image of the upper. These escutcheons are cut to suit the locks and cylinders on page These covers help to protect an exposed cylinder from weather and reduce the likelihood of seizing.

This iron push plate can easily be drilled and mated to a variety of our rings and knobs. This English cast brass sash lift is unusually large and comfortable. It is best suited to institutional and studio scaled windows.

This cast brass handle is an authorized Colonial Williamsburg reproduction. This extruded brass sash lift from England has a unique profile, is comfortable to the hand, and can be used either way up. This pattern is cast brass, it is both strong and elegant. Our transom catch is spring loaded with a beveled bolt Catch with universal strike for self-latching action.

We can supply it with either a universal or box strike. Matching casement catches are shown on pages A pivoting bar with a series of holes drilled along its length is attached to the window and two pins over which the bar can drop are screwed into the casement. When closed, the bar lays parallel to the window and spans both pins, preventing the window from opening. The window can be opened to a variety of different angles depending on which hole is dropped over which pin.

Please see the notes on page regarding use and suitability of these casement stays. Matching casement catches are shown on pages and These telescoping friction stays were engineered as casement window stays, but we nd they also make excellent chest stays.

Because these stays collapse into themselves, they require only minimal free space inside a chest and the internal friction provides a margin of safety against accidental closure. Depending on the size of the lid they are expected to support, the friction will allow a lid to remain open in a variety of di erent positions and to close softly with only gentle pressure.

Our telescoping friction stays also function very nicely in their intended purpose as casement window stays. The friction is suffcient to hold a window against moderate wind. Aside from their intended use as casement stays, these sliding stays are excellent choices if a chest lid needs to be held rmly open.

They are also ideal for drafting tables where an adjustable angle is needed. Windows fitted with an interior screen will not work with the stay on the right hand side of this page.

Folding stay in two vertical front desk applications. Folding stay in slant front desk application. Please confirm the applicability of all dimensions provided by us to your work before drilling any holes.

Stays of one sort or another are used to hold chest and box lids from falling backwards or forwards. They can be used to support desk writing surfaces, or to hold drafting tables at a suitable working angle and allow them to fold at for storage.

Countless other uses will crop up, but choosing the right stay and guring out how to install it properly is not as easy as it first appears. As often as not, the stay that seems the obvious choice will resist your most determined e orts to have it do the task you have in mind. Sometimes the best stay is nothing more than a length of rope or chain.

Our stays fall into four categories: Folding, Sliding, Telescoping, and Casement. In the case of a blanket chest, it might be possible to use each of these alternatives, but some quite serious safety considerations will come into play and depending on your particular situation, you will probably want to dismiss one or more alternatives.

The same is true in making an appropriate selection for a desk, though the consequences are of less impact.

Correctly installed, the folding stay intrudes very little into the box or desk. The chance of interference with shelves. Folding stays over-extend to slightly more than degrees. This attribute a prevents them from closing again until partially released at the joint by pulling or pushing. This locking action is useful, but could be considered a liability.

We would not recommend these stays for use around small children. The potential for accidental release and pinched fingers is slight, but does exist.

We have friction stays that are better suited under these circumstances. The illustrations show typical installations on a chest and two styles of fall front desks. In either application, the smaller stays need to be installed so the joint folds away from the hinges forward folding.

The larger stays can often be fitted to fold either way, but space limits will often require their joint to fold towards the hinge. The location points we have provided will work for both orientations, and are measured from the hinge pin. These are workable locations, but not the only possibilities. In the case of the chest installation, these dimensions will provide slightly more than a 90 degree opening of the lid and for the falling front desk flap, a horizontal opening.

We have illustrated two types of vertical fall front desk applications, the measurements are the same in both cases. The first is typical if the hinged writing surface is attached to fixed cabinetry. The second is useful if the writing surface is a drawer front when closed.

If used to support the writing surface of a slant front desk, you will be limited to desks with a 60 degree or steeper angle. Lesss than 60 degrees, and the desk mounting point will need to be so far back that the extended stay will no longer be long enough to allow horizontal opening. As most traditional slant front desks have a slope of greater angle, we suggest either the traditional pullout supports or sliding stays.

A bar is fitted with apivoting foot at one end and a fixed rivet at the other. Between these two obstructions is another foot consisting of a collar pivoting on a mounting plate through which the bar slides. The most common application for these stays is to prevent a chest or box lid from falling backwards. On casual study, the sliding stay will seem the obvious choice for many applications where a hinged panel needs restraint.

Think twice before committing yourself to these stays, because, while they may at first glance seem the closest relative to a simple chain or rope,they differ in one critical regard.

In the closed position, a chain or rope will simply hang wherever gravity takes it, and no real consideration need be given as to where it ends up or how it gets there. By contrast, the rigid arm of the sliding stay will swing across a significant area as it closes and this area must be kept clear of obstruction. We have provided mounting positions for our various sizes of sliding stay in both desk and chest applications. All these measurements are taken using the hinge pivot pin as the point of reference.

If this clearance is not available, these stays cannot be used. As often as not, a folding stay will serve the same function, and will need much less clearance. Please confirm the applicability of these dimensions to your work before drilling any holes. These Brusso lid stays mount into the box side.

These popular stays do not intrude into the interior of the box. Our English extruded brass butt hinges cover the range from large architectural sizes down to the smallest cabinet sizes.

The quality of design and manufacturing is uniform across all sizes. The extruded section is milled and drilled for smooth operation and very long life. The architectural sizes offer a cost effective alternative to quality American door hinges. These hinges are fully capable of supporting the heaviest of doors and are historically appropriate.

Here follows an explanation of these two outwardly similar hinge types. The traditional English hinge is a atback design while the traditional American hinge is a swaged style. The American swaged form is the result of a manufacturing tradition that extends back to the early part of the last century.

Then, as now, by far the bulk of American hinges were formed of sheet material. The practicalities of forming hinge sections from sheet material generally favored the use of thinner material than might otherwise be desired and in order to make a stronger, more wear resistant product, the barrel of. Standards that eventually became defined by trade and government agencies naturally reflected the then current state of technology. So all American hinges to this day, however they are manufactured, still bear the characteristics of an economical, mass produced product.

Our American made swaged hinges are milled from solid brass extrusions, rather than folded from sheet material. This results in a hinge with a more precise fit, a much longer life and far better finish. The design of our English atback hinges is also the direct consequence of past manufacturing methods, though in their case, a century or more older. The first English brass butt hinges were hand fitted and finishd sand castings. To compensate for the brittleness of this material, the hinges were made as thick as possible within the limits of the particular hinge size.

The atback design allows the thickness of each hinge leaf to be close to half the diameter of the hinge barrel. Even though hinges are no longer sand cast, the pro le of the modern English hinge remains the same as it was years ago. A subtle detail found in our English butt hinges is the tapering of the leaf. When these hinges were still cast brass, the greatest weakness was where the leaf section meets the barrel.

In contrast, the edges of the leaf are under no stress and could be thin, so. For any given hinge size, the leaf thickness of a atback hinge will tend to be greater and the barrel diameter smaller than the equivalent swaged hinge. Your choice between these two hinge types should ultimately be based on taste and period. The atback hinges with their slender elegant barrels should certainly be your choice if you are replicating the avor of period furniture, while the more imposing barrels of the swaged hinges suit heavier late 19th and 20th century styles.

SIZE Picking an appropriate hinge for a particular application is one of the multitude of small decisions the furnituremaker must make which ultimately makes their work look unmis- takably their own. As long as one stays within reason, the choice you make will invariably function quite adequately.

Having decided on a hinge length, the choice of hinge width must be considered. Some woodworkers like to mortise across the full thickness of the door and try to select a hinge accordingly.

It is generally better practice to cut a stopped mortise in both the door and the cabinetwork and use a narrower hinge. This not only looks neater, but provides a positive location in two planes for the hinge.

Back when fragile cast hinges were in general use, a narrower hinge leaf was preferred because it brought the screws closer to the hinge barrel and so reduced the unsupported width of leaf material. The last dimensional choice to be decided upon is the barrel diameter. This need not vary much in order to have a signi cant effect on the visual weight of the hinge. The choice will depend more on visual The ect than strength considerations. Slender hinge barrels compliment the elegant lines of period furniture.

The heft of much 19th and 20th century cabinetwork can suit hinges of greater visual weight. Originally conceived for architectural doors and casement windows their removable hinge pins allow a door to be taken on and off its casework quickly and without tools. Perhaps this development serves both the cabinetmaker and the user equally well. The cabinet maker gains a little time, while the customer acquires decorative tips at top and bottom of his hinges. These hinges suit architectural cabinetwork particularly well as, in effect, they are smaller relatives of standard door hinges and so allow a design continuity throughout a house.

Their applica- bility to furniture use is less historically justi ed and as they are built with clearance to allow the pin to be easily withdrawn, they are not as precise as their xed pin cousins. The voting these days is clearly in favor of loose pin hinges, but a user needs to be aware that a xed pin hinge without balls or finials is not lacking any vital part. FINISH Throughout most of the 18th and 19th centuries the common butt hinge was expected to do its job without drawing attention to itself.

Functional elements such as hinges and locks were not meant to be in competition with designed. These days, perhaps because we are starved of contact with quality materials, we like to display them to the best effect. S4, Ep4. Following the discovery of a third corpse, flayed like the others, Sabina Masud talks to Chandler. She explains that Baldaev was the leader of a Russian extortion gang demanding money from her father.

When he refused to pay Baldaev stalked her and she was in the graveyard when he was killed, describing his slayer as resembling an old woman wearing a leather mask. This fits the description of the person who abducted young student William Tierney Clark. Clark, like the other three victims, was acquitted in a case where somebody was killed, suggesting a revenge motive by S4, Ep5. In the sewers beneath as Whitechapel church two workmen find the disembowelled corpse of young runner Thomas Griffin.

Dr Llewellyn believes his killer removed his stomach and entrails. A camera rigged up in the sewer leads to zoologist Mark Hooper but he was only testing an urban myth to see if feral pigs roamed the sewers. The next victim, Anne Ayres, is found in the same state as Thomas and, like him, was feted for local charity work.

Both were profiled by journalist Peter Dunn, who, when visited by the police, is cooking something that smells very strange.

At the S4, Ep6. Buchan theorizes that the killers are cannibals, eating their victims to assume their power and goodness. Following Josie's disappearance, Miles and Chandler learn that she too was interviewed by Dunn, and that he is part of an exclusive dining club - though they feed on endangered species, not people.

After Josie's body is found Miles installs a CCTV camera in the police station, which captures Louise Iver committing acts of sabotage which have caused the recent disasters.